On a visit to Winchester last Autumn I dragged my long-suffering husband along to a slightly unbalanced, and otherwise unprepossessing looking Regency house in College Street. He was a little perplexed as all I wanted was an obligatory selfie-photo taken from outside the building. You couldn't even go in, but I was following a long line of Austen lovers from around the world who simply wanted the chance to soak up the atmosphere and sights of Jane's last days which were spent inside three rented rooms in the upstairs of this very property. The solitary thing marking this was a plaque on the outside wall above the front door. Regardless, a photo here was a must for any self-respecting Janeite. So, it was whilst posing for said photo that my husband spotted a small A4 flyer in the window advertising that the house would be especially opened for a limited number of viewings in 2025, as part of the 250th year celebrations of the author's birth. What a great spot! Needless to say, I signed up the minute the tickets went on sale.
Posing for the original fortuitous photo in Autumn 2024.
And so yesterday, 13th August - the long-awaited day of the tour had arrived. Travelling down on the train I reflected on how fortunate I was to have been able to get tickets. I have heard from so many who were too late, or who simply live too far away.
The tour started not at the house but at the Porter's Lodge of Winchester College, and arriving there you really feel as if you are stepping into a protective academic historic world all of its own. Winchester College is one of England’s most storied educational institutions, with a history stretching back over six centuries having been founded in 1382. What has it to do with the Austen story? Well No.8 College Street is immediately next door to the college buildings and in the late 1800s the property was acquired by the College. Austen herself would also have been most familiar with the school as many of her nephews attended. (In total eight Austen boys would be taught at the school between 1808-1830).
Mustering for the tour, outside the ancient College.
The tour itself started with a bonus which I had been unaware of when booking. We were shown into a special Austen exhibition inside the College which housed a number of treasures. I was surprised and delighted to find that on display were first and other very early editions of her works. Handwritten pieces in Jane's hand. An original copy of the tombstone epitaph by her brother Henry being instantly recognisable as the words on her gravestone in the neighbouring Winchester Cathedral. There are a number of other Austen and Knight related items that are well worth a look. We were very kindly and efficiently shown around and then told by the volunteer guide that we were welcome to come back and view the rest of the College exhibition for as long as we wanted in the remainder of the day. What an unexpected treat!
One of the many College-owned early editions of Austen's novels.
An example of a Charade written by Jane.
Henry Austen's memorial to Jane that appears on her gravestone in the neighbouring Cathedral.
Part of the wider Winchester College exhibition. Tours of the College are more widely available than the quickly sold-out house season. They are running a special Austen exhibition room and other events for the 250th anniversary.
Next up was the visit just a few doors down to the house. Again, this was managed extremely efficiently and in a very friendly manner. A College volunteer escorted us to the house and gave us a short talk, but from then the house itself was self-guided and again we were allowed to stay for as long as we liked! Fantastic!
Jane came to these rooms with the intention of re-gaining her health, this was not intended as hospice care. She had been attended previously by the physician Giles Lyford, and had travelled across to Winchester to receive more care for her illness from him. The temporary accommodation had been found for her and sister Cassandra by long-standing family friend Elizbeth Heathcote (nee Bigg) who lived a stone's throw away in Cathedral Close. (Elizabeth's sister Alethea also assisted). Both sister's having forgiven Jane for withdrawing overnight her acceptance of a proposal of marriage from their brother Henry Bigg-Wither, in times past. Elizabeth and Alethea were keenly aware of the financial constraints upon the Austen women and helped them with other matters during the stay.
In her eight weeks here we can learn a lot from letters Jane wrote. Indeed she even wrote a final original poem here about the annual Winchester horse races.
Jane spoke warmly of the accommodation "we have a neat little drawing-room with a bow-window overlooking Dr Gabell's (the College Headmaster) garden". She was said to have spent a lot of time on a sofa in front of the bay window, and I found this one of the most moving and evocative parts of the house. The College have placed a sofa in the spot they think the original would have been and the view still overlooks the garden today.
Another poignant room has a quote from Cassandra on the wall. She later spoke of how after her beloved sister had passed away here, she was unable to attend the funeral. Only male relatives were allowed to accompany Austen, and in fact there were only four in attendance when she was buried - her three brothers Edward, Henry and Francis plus her nephew James Edward Austen. As the body was led out on procession Cassandra had to return to the house to watch from an upstairs window.
"I watched the little mournful procession the length of the street and when it turned away from my sight and I had lost her forever - even then I was not overpowered - not so much agitated as I am now I'm writing of it."
I found another room very moving, but I didn't want to take any photos because of the personal nature. That was because the College was keen to hear from the worldwide visitors as to what Jane Austen meant to them. Why had we done the pilgrimage? We were provided with cards to fill in which were pinned up in a room at the end of the visit. You could not see the walls on all three sides for completed postcards. It was incredibly moving to read what Austen had brought to people. I too completed my card where I noted how Austen had always been with me, having grown up near to Chawton I developed an early interest and chose an Austen volume to receive as a school prize. I still have that book all these years later. Now, as an antique bookseller specialising in Austen, I have the joy of uniting gorgeous editions of her novels into the hands of collectors all around the world and so I can thank her for providing me with a passion and an occupation which I love.
On a lighter note, a couple of other interesting bits I picked up on were about the history of the building itself. In the mid 1800s, once it had ceased being rental lodgings the house became home to a confectionery shop, selling sweets and ices to the College boys. The owner of the shop became fed up with non-customers stopping to enquire about a certain "Jane Austen's" connection with the building. He was said to have enquired of his brother as to who this "Austen" woman was. His brother coming up with the idea of putting up a plaque on the outside of the building to stop people coming in uninvited. The plaque was said to have only made matters a lot worse. They kept coming! At the end of the shop tenancy, the house was then purchased by the College.
Another thing I found interesting was the colour scheme of the rooms. Apparently the College were keen to paint the walls in the original colours and carefully scraped back layers to reveal the original. We were told pupils from the school helped in this process which I'm strongly in favour of. The different colours underneath assisted historians in establishing the layout of the house in Austen's time. The colours have been recreated by paint-expert Edward Bulmer, and pots were on sale in the gift shop.
The holes in the plaster are there deliberately...
Layers of plaster were carefully peeled back to reveal the colours from Jane's time. With the assistance of pupils from the College.
After the mandatory trip to the gift-shop (its rude not to right?), I can recommend a couple of other treats right on the doorstep of No.8. Firstly starting with an exceptional latte and cake from the adjacent temporary coffee box.
Next just a couple of doors down is P&G Wells Bookshop. A true gem for bibliophiles and history lovers alike. Established in 1729 P&G Wells is one of Britain’s oldest bookshops, possibly the oldest still in operation. Its roots trace back to John Burden, who supplied books and stationery to Winchester College in the 18th century. The shop has occupied 11 College Street since at least 1789. Over the centuries it has served as a stationers, booksellers and fine bindery, with equipment dating back to the 18th century still in use. Jane Austen herself mentioned buying books from the shop in 1798, adding a personal touch to its literary legacy. Today it has a wonderful Austen dedicated section on the ancient wooden shelves as you walk in.
Finally, after all this more refreshments are in order. Again, just a couple of doors down I can highly recommend The Wykeham Arms, a wonderful traditional old pub. Quintessentially English, with antique furnishings, vintage memorabilia, and a warm, rustic charm. They have accommodation too. With real and cask ales. The pub has earned two AA Rosettes for 13 consecutive years, and we certainly enjoyed a delicious evening meal of high quality.
I'm about to leave my highly positive feedback on a most gratifying tour and will be earnestly entreating the College to open to rooms again in the future. I am sure from the overwhelming demand for tickets this time, and from the responses in the postcard room, the clamour to see the house will only grow louder. Until then, I hope I have provided you with just a flavour of Austen's Winchester.
Tracy x